Sea in sight!
Not only in sight from every studio, but actually close: in a leisurely 5-minute walk you are at the public sandy beach that stretches far across the bay of Makry-Gialos. If you prefer to be furnished with deckchairs and parasols, you can have a drink in a taverna and then use its infrastructure. There are showers and a few changing rooms for everyone. For a village beach, the sea here is remarkably clean and well maintained.
If you don’t mind a little more effort, you will be richly rewarded: to the east, at the fractions Analipsi and Lagada, but still within walking distance, there are more wonderful beaches and dreamy bays. They are almost deserted even in July! Except in the area of the large hotel complex (Sunwings), all beaches are connected by foot. So you can walk along the sea for more than an hour. The western section of the beach at Lagada (150 m) is an official nudist zone. A little further west there is a very nice taverna right by the sea. It’s best to take a look at the situation on the Google aerial photo.
If you prefer to take a leisurely stroll along the sea on a well-maintained path and like to stop for a bite to eat, turn west towards the centre of the village at the bottom of the beach. This “lungomare” is especially charming in the evening!
Paradise for hikers
You wouldn’t expect it just like that on the map, but in fact we are in a very exciting and little-known hiking area:
- The one most likely to be described in the guidebook is the “Butterfly Gorge“. Its entrance is about 4 km west of the house, shortly after Koutsouras. The easily recognisable and shaded car park with tavern marks the beginning. Initially, the trail passes through a planted pine forest before the adventure begins. Small scrambles, stream crossings, a wooden ladder, water guidance system, reeds and bushes and now and then a small farm enrich the route. Enjoy the nice pic-nic area in front of a Byzantine chapel from the 3rd (!) century. The gorge stretches far up the mountain until Orino, a very nice mountain village. There are turn-offs towards the mountain road. From December to April, the first few stream crossings may be a bit challenging. Although the name promises many butterflies, this is not true everywhere and at all times of the year. Nevertheless, the landscape is very beautiful and this hike is highly recommended.
- About 6 km to the east, shortly after Kalo Nera, is the Moni Kapsa monastery, which is open for visits. At its feet is the entrance to the Pervolakia Gorge, which I would call the Gorge of the Vultures (= Pervolakia Gorge). Although you first have to climb a little on the western slope to descend straight back to the stream bed, it is worth the effort. In Nov/Dec 2020 I could observe at least 4 pairs of vultures here, raising their young in their nests high in the rocky recesses. Thus it’s worth taking binoculars and taking some time to observe these impressive birds.
- If you are not afraid of the approximately one-hour drive over small mountain roads, you can first relax in the rustic Kafeneion of Zarkos (there are also other inns). Then it’s off to the famous “Death Valley Gorge” – a gorge that leads down to the sea and marks the end of the European hiking route E4. Not that this gorge is particularly dangerous, but at the end are the remains of a Minoan settlement with a corresponding cemetery. A little further on, by the sea, there are a few tavernas and a nice pebble beach. If you prefer to shorten the hike, you can park the car about halfway, a little above the gorge (official car park).
- Last but not least, my pearl, the Pefki Gorge: an almost 3-hour walk, directly from our house. From the end of the cul-de-sac, climb over the guardrail, cross the little-used bypass road and take the small mountain road. A little before the high-voltage power line, the natural road branches off to the right towards the gorge. Shortly afterwards, the path is well marked with wooden signposts and E4 signs. This is how you get to the inside of the gorge via the other side of the valley. I won’t give it all away here, but you can expect a pinch of adventure (don’t worry, it’s easy to manage) and breathtaking scenery. Further up, at the picnic area, you have to decide whether to continue to the village of Pefki or to take the mule track back to Makrygialos. The latter leads south again above the gorge and zigzags down to the gorge entrance. From there, it is worth taking the small road down into the valley to then re-enter civilisation in Analipsi/Makrygialos and enjoy a little refreshment, for example in the patisserie between the vegetable shop and the butcher’s shop.
- The short mountain hike from picturesque Pefki to the chapel Stavromenos at 700 m asl is also highly recommended. The mountain path starts at the upper edge of the village and can be reached via various alleys. Here, too, we are on the E4 trail network. If this is not enough for you, we recommend the detours to the two caves: To get to the Apolistiki cave, follow the mountain road for about an hour to its end, and from there continue on the scree for another 500 m or so. A signpost (with the wrong direction of the arrow) marks the entrance to the cave. The first few metres are well secured. A little further in, there is a small dome with stalactites and stalagmites. Don’t forget a torch! Easier to reach is the zz cave, which is about one kilometre north-east of the tarmac road leading back down to Pefki. The entrance here is via a comfortable wooden staircase.
- Along the coast, especially towards the east, there are also very beautiful hiking possibilities. This can be optimally combined with a swim in a secluded bay. In autumn and winter, you can also meet the shepherd there with his large flock of sheep. With a bit of luck, you will find meadow mushrooms after it has rained. If you prefer a circular walk, you can take a path through the olive groves. Some improvisation is required.
Biking
Bike tours are my big discovery in 2023! After renting an e-MTB at the Koutsouras bike shop in spring, I was so enthusiastic that I bought one for myself on the spot. This was a very good investment (by the way, it saves me a car)! Since then, I have been riding on routes that are not suitable for normal rental cars. In the course of this, I have discovered remote mountain villages and impressive landscapes. I would be happy to show you such adventure trips when you are my guest.
